..............................

Home

Nitrous Express

Injen CAI

TRD Body Kit

Gauges

Carbon Fiber Kit

Factory Alarm

Custom Grill

Low Beams

Lights at Night

Cabin Air Filter

Older Photos

Nitrous Express

There has been a lot of discussion on the message boards lately
about installing a nitrous system and what is needed for a safe setup.
This is what I have learned by researching the topic and talking to a
lot of people about this. I'll be using Nitrous Express part numbers
for examples because that's what I decided was the best system and
its what I bought. With a basic system, NX 20923, you can have a
working nitrous system, it includes the bottle, bottle brackets, all lines
and electrical parts, solenoids, nozzle, and wide open throttle switch.
The down side to having only this kit is if you hit the rev limiter or your
fuel pump goes out you'll continue to spray nitrous into the engine with
no additional gas, that's not good. Also you have only the arming switch
and WOT switch to control the nitrous activation. The advantages of adding
the NX GenX 2 kit is you get a fuel pressure safety switch, disarms the
system if your fuel pressure drops below 35 psi, it can be adjusted from
25 to 60 psi. You get a bottle heater that comes on when the bottle pressure
drops below 900 psi and shuts off again when the pressure reaches 1050
psi. This helps your system out because it works best and more consistently
in this pressure range. The purge valve that comes with the GenX 2 helps
by removing nitrous in the supply line that has turned to a vapor, you want
nitrous in liquid form when it enters the nozzle. The final benefit of the
GenX 2 is that it includes a system that vents the nitrous to the outside
of your vehicle in the event that the bottle pressure raises to 3000 psi.
Another thing you might want to add is a RPM window switch. This
switch lets you control at what RPM range the system is active. You set
a starting and ending RPM, this is good because you don't want to
spray nitrous at too low of engine RPM and you can shut it off before
hitting the rev limiter. Mallory makes a good RPM window switch
that you set with dials inside the switch. Other types of the RPM switches
require that you buy plug in modules to control the RPM settings.
If you include these parts in your system it will be much safer than the
basic setup, isn't your engine worth the extra cost. The cost break
down is the 20923 kit is around $525, GenX 2 about $350 and the
window switch is $82. These prices were taken from a random internet
site and are the listed prices. You will find better prices if you shop around.
I also added the remote bottle opener in my system but it's not necessary.
All of this info is strictly my opinion and I only offer it to give someone looking
into Nitrous Oxide a starting place. With this setup you arm the system with
the main power switch and if you are at wide open throttle and within
the RPM range you set in the window switch it sprays nitrous and
fuel into the engine. If you have any other questions feel free to email me. (10/4/010
Be sure to check out my switch panel at the bottom of this page. (09/14/01)

Nitrous Express 20923. and Bottle Opener.

Gen X 2 kit. It includes a purge kit, bottle heater, fuel pressure safety switch and blow down tube.

Bottle Opener.

20923 kit minus the bottle.

I preassembled everything and used Teflon based thread paste on all but the nitrous and fuel lines.

Nitrous solenoid and purge valve.

Fuel solenoid and fuel pressure safety switch.

"Shark" nozzle? Looks like a Piranha.

How I made the switch panel.
I ended up using a plastic storage bin from Office Max, it's like a box to stash
paperwork in. My thought was to use a plastic clipboard but I couldn't find what
I wanted. I started by making a template out of cardboard; it took forever fitting
and trimming. Then I cut out the side of the storage bin and cut it the shape I needed.
To make it sit in the glove box I bought some Scotch double sided foam tape and stuck some
1/4 inch thick plastic strips I had laying around to the inside of the glove box, kind of like a
small shelf for the panel to sit on. I did have to drill a large hole in the back of the glove box
to run the wires in. The white strip on the back of the panel was added to stiffen the panel,
it worked really well. I drilled holes in the panel to mount the switches and Mallory RPM
window switch, the S-AFC is velcroed on so I can pull it out to make adjustments.

Mounted in the glove box.

People either love it or hate it. More photos to come.